How to use a Serger, Overlock Machine, Quilting, Quilting Room, Serger, Sewing, Sewing and Embroidery, Simple Sewing

National Sewing Month

Okay, I admit that I get pretty excited every year during National Sewing Month. It is a fantastic time to get back to sewing, quilting, embroidery and all things related. Naturally, the sewing machine manufacturers are fully aware of this and just to tempt us, they put out their new products in time for NSM events and strong forth quarter sales. Brother has released a machine that has me REALLY hyped – the all new 5 thread CV3550.


Fans of Sewing Pattern review can find comments here:

Brother Cover Hem CV3550

My personal take on this machine is that is the perfect addition to any sewing or quilting studio. The Brother CV3550 Video does a great job showing off the hemming features but just touches on how amazing it is for piecing and quilting. Since it does a chain stitch and has a generous 6.1″ to the right of the needle I can definitely see myself using it to piece and sew because it will NEVER need bobbin thread. No more running out at just the wrong moment. No more fiddling for matching colors. YAY!

There are two great attachments for the machine:

The Dual Function Fold Binder is used to fold 1.25 inch (32mm) wide bias fabric tape into 0.31 inch (8mm) wide double fold bias tape, and then apply the bias tape binding to the edge of fabric. Attach the binder to the cover stitch machine simply with the two included screws. This accessory may also be used as a binder for single fold bias tape.

sa231cv-d  sa230cv-d

The second attachment is perfect for finishing collars and armholes on sleeveless apparel.

The product specifications can be found at the official website : Brother CV3550 Details

We will have this model on display at the shop soon. Look for event details!





Starting, Running and Growing a Sewing Business with no money

Do you dream of having your own shop filled with beautiful fabrics, fun classes  and wonderful customers? Perhaps you would like to start an independent pattern company? Designer Sewing Center started with just one friend asking me to help her with a T-shirt quilt for her daughter. It grew to a little online club for a few friends and fellow sewists, called The Sewist Club. I started a four page newsletter, called Sutura Style, to share tips, tricks and tidbits. Then more classes at home, in my living room. In the Spring of 2015 I started teaching at Hancock Fabrics, and when that grew to the point that I needed a space of my own, we moved to our new, permanent home, at our shop Designer Sewing Center.  It has been a wonderful, sometimes nerve-racking, but always exciting, experience. While the shop has been getting set up, all sewing has been pretty much on hold, but I realized that the journey is a story well worth sharing.  Here is a picture of our shop, before signage or merchandising the windows.

 I was blessed to receive some really great advice at the beginning and it has kept me in good stead every step of the way, “start small and build your way up slowly and carefully”. The ISBDC, in the state of Indiana, provides mentors who can help you learn what you need to know to write a solid business plan which is key to mapping out your future success. It takes patience and passion to start from ground zero with nothing but your two hands and no money, but it can be done. It also takes time and some other way of paying the bills until your business is in a position to stand on its own. The money portion is the toughest part.  Turning your passion into a profit making venture actually takes more time than most people realize.

So, I want to bring money in, but I’ve got no money to open a business with. Starting with my own circle, my first student was our Pastor’s wife and my buddy, Robin. That was back in 2013.  I didn’t charge any money but I the joy of spending time with my buddy and I learned a lot about sharing what I know with others. Fortunately, I kept a notebook to write down my experiences.  I was selling cosmetics through a direct sales company to keep positive cash flow. Robin was a wonderful person to have a my first student. She was so encouraging!

My buddy Robin Mullins and I with her completed T-shirt quilt.

Lessons I learned:

First, volunteering pays in ways we can’t imagine.  Being with someone who cares about you provides the safest place to get feedback  and to share your knowledge. Second, listening and writing about experiences is payment in wisdom. Having the chance to listen to Robin’s questions inspired me to finish the first workbook in the Sutura Style series, Sew Like a Pro. It has been revised several times since the first thoughts were but put to paper but the foundation was based on listening to the needs of others instead of merely trying to regurgitate acquired knowledge.

After meeting with Robin, I decided I wanted to have a teaching business from home but it was nearly a year before I found my first paying customers, our neighbors. Those who have been following this blog know about how illness struck suddenly and all my plans were derailed. To be in business, good health is vital.

 My living room turned sewing studio circa fall 2013

Lessons I learned: there is a time and a season for everything.

I spent the rest of 2013 and most of 2014 writing, making videos and sewing, carefully testing every lesson on entry level, domestic sewing machines and listening, listening, listening. And healing.

Finally, in the fall of 2014 a few neighbors came by for a sewing class. I charged just $10 to cover the cost of fabrics and I put it on as the “beta” version of the new classes that I would be teaching.

Lessons I learned at our first “class”? The most important one was the level of difficulty. After two years of writing, making tutorials and teaching online, I had finally nailed it.  And the  Sutura Style program was born. Into the ISDBC I dove for business plan writing and skill development. When we first opened the shop we had just a few used machines, a handful of bolts of fabric and not much else, all of which had to be paid for by money earned teaching the Sutura Style program at Hancock Fabrics. Earn, save, strive. It’s the best way to build a business from nothing. Oh, and by the way, a hard work sandwich every day will ensure that your business gets off to a good start. That sandwich is made up of Hard Work, Innovation and More Hard Work:)

Happy Sewing,


Atelier, Couture, Cutting Table, DIY Sewing Room Projects, Sewing, Sewing Patterns

The Anatomy of a Fabulous Fit – Full Bust and Small Seat

Professional Dressform

I was scrolling through my photostream and I suddenly realized how often I write/talk/teach/demo about fit. In fact, I think that getting a good fit is the number one subject in class, other than the technical skills needed to create a beautiful garment.


Investing in a good dress form is the same as buying a good quality serger, sewing machine, or iron. I was asked recently whether or not I think having one is important. YES! If budget constraints have got you down, there are several blogs and tutorials on how to make your own dress form using a combination of double-sided tape, wood dowels, and spray foam. Fashion Institute of Technology instructor, Kenneth King, developed a method of using fusible quilt batting, shoulder pads, and other simple materials to create a body silhouette that can be mounted on a cheap dress form. That said, bear in mind that dress forms are not human forms. I have never encountered a human that had absolutely no buttocks whatsoever. Most dress forms are missing this part of the human anatomy, together with the lumps, bumps, and curves that make us truly female. So, some method of getting the form to accurately reflect your true shape is necessary.


My personal favorite method is the Fabulous Fit system combined with a dressmaker form. I have written about this before but for my new students, here is a fresh take on how to get a perfect fit. For this tutorial, you will need a dress form one size (or more) smaller than your body measurements and the Fabulous Fit System in your size. has dress forms for about $150. A small price to pay compared to how much the average sewist will spend on fabric and how much time is wasted trying to get a perfect fit without one. You can also look online at auction houses or, try a retail mannequin form for around $59. The main problem with these mannequins is that they are very small. The Fabulous Fit System is about $77 also on Also, I recommend the following items, shown below:

1) A Cotton Bra that fits you well.

2) A Copy of the Sutura Style fit chart. Accurate measurements lead to accurate results. Get your copy here.

3) A piece of elastic equal to your waist measurement less 1″ and tied at the end

4) A pair of shoulder pads


Having taken my current measurements, I laid out all my pieces to make it easy to find what I needed.


Step 1: Full Bust Adjustments

Put your bra on the dress form. The instructions tell you to put the first cotton cover on first. That is fine if you don’t need to do an FBA, but since I do have a full bust, it’s important to get that area right. The mannequin actually has the same measurements as I do at the apex, but check out the gaping at the high bust. This is my first correction.


I added the bra pads and placed them in such a way that the thick part is up, filling the top area of the bra cup.


Here is what it looks like. I took the time to smooth the pads a little more, then added the first cotton cover. It’s the one without the princess seams.


Step 2: Filling out the waist. Using the piece of elastic to hold the pads in place, I played with the different pieces until I had the shape I needed. I started out with 2 of the 17″ pads and 2 filler pads (shown above). Then I added the pads labeled ‘high hip’. They are politely referring to the buttocks. I checked all my measurements and then replaced the filler pads with thigh pads. The thigh pads gave me a rounder hip area on the sides and less on the backside.


Step 3: Small seat Adjustment.

Okay, I’ve got a small butt, but this lady has me beat. I put the buttock pads in the natural spot and then had to drag them down and sideways to get the fullness where it really is. After playing with the pads, I finally figured out that I needed to use the two thigh pads to create my small seat area. The buttock pads were just too thick. So, I took out the thigh pads shown above at my waist and used the shoulder pads to create a bit of a tummy.


Step 4: Covering the Form: Once my main adjustments were made, I put the second cover on. Using the elastic helped enormously with this as it was holding 6 pads in place!


And now I am ready to sew for the body I really have! This project takes about 1 hour but saves time and frustration when sewing new garments.

Couture, Fabric

Ways To Save On Sewing Supplies

I had a another conversation recently with someone who was considering purchasing a serger but was concerned about having to buy 4 cones of every color of thread. I posted earlier on thread blending so I won’t belabour the point, instead here are some of my favorite ways to save big on sewing fabrics supplies and notions.

  1. Buy in bulk or from an industrial supplier. There is usually a volume discount available. Share with a sewing buddy if needed. I buy threads from Wawak (woolley nylon) and GoldStar. I love GoldStar for serger thread because the prices are great, the quality is good and they have free shipping. The online color chart is great too.
  2. Be patient with purchases; wait for sales whenever possible (see 7 for exceptions).
  3. Double up on coupons. When JoAnn & Hancock fabric offer the chance to save an additional 15-20% off sale and non-sale items, take it!
  4. Buy things you need all the time, like interfacing, certain colors of thread, and lining fabrics when they hit rock bottom. I posted earlier this week about the sale on Ralph Lauren lining fabric. At a $1.79 for high quality goods, now is a great time to purchase.
  5. Think outside the box. Remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The concept of “it has to look as good on the inside as on the outside” is great, but the person looking at the inside of your garments is most likely to be you. I add funky colors to the inside of garments all the time and smile when I wash. By choosing non-traditional colors and prints and fabrics I can save because everyday prices are often low on things that are less popular. The added benefit is that it adds the “smile factor” to a chore.
  6. Know when to buy. I know that the truck arrives at my local fabric store on a Tuesday, so the best time to check for new arrivals and sale items is Wednesday morning. If you are into higher end fabrics, know the fashion cycle. Understanding it is simple. When the January sales kick in, that means that retailers are making room for spring and summer clothing, and that in turn means that the spring and summer manufaturing cycle is coming to a close. Great fabrics are on sale! Look for then at jobbers like Denver Fabrics, Mood Fabrics and more.
  7. Know what to buy. For example, I love boucle for winter; when a new shipment arrived in a color that I loved I bought it right away. The full price of the fabric was less than a coat made of comparable goods, so I did not hesistate. Knowing which fabrics hold high retail value is important. I saved money in the long run over what I would pay for ready to wear clothing and will enjoy my new coat many seasons.
  8. Try to organize a local Stitcher’s Switch or participate in one. Trading fabrics from your stash that have been on the shelf for a little too long is a great way to get fresh inspiration from unused goods.
  9. Invest in the best. It doesn’t sound like saving money but buying good quality supplies is more cost effective than buying poor quality at low prices.
  10. Shop flea markets, garage sales, re-sellers like Goodwill, consignement shops, and online auctions for great deals. My 2 favorite deals are still the desks I bought and painted, one for my Bernina and the other for my serger. I use old sheets and pillow slips for muslin, lining, and even clothing. If it is made out of fabric – sew it! I bought a jacket for $1.50 years ago just to get the buttons and fabric. Upstyling is good for the environment and the budget.
  11. Buy it and dye it. Shopping for natural fibers makes sound financial sense. They can be used as is or dyed to another color.
  12. Save scraps.  Saving the selvedges, and scraps has helped me out of more corners than I care to write about. Be careful with this one, it can turn into a space consuming monster, lol!
  13. Save old dryer sheet for a multitude of uses in the sewing room.

The final tip is to embrace the place you’re at. If you are a novice then avoid high priced fabric (unless it is deeply discounted) until your skills are up to the challenge. After nearly forty years of designing, pattern making and sewing, I still put myself through my paces before trying to sew on costly goods. This isn’t just about sewing a sample and getting the tension right (both are necessary) but also about practicing the skills I need time and again to create muscle memory.

Fall and winter fabrics should be arriving at excellent prices at this time of year – so I am off to shop!

Happy Sewing,


Couture, Fabric, Fabric Storage

Fabulous Fabric and Couture Kitty Fun

“Bridal Fabric? What Bridal Fabric?” Lol! I keep fabric stored inside glass cabinets in my sewing room until I am ready to cut it. I walked in to find Goku (aka Couture Kitty) inside a bag of bridal fabric that I had cut for an upcoming video (shameless plug here). He had somehow opened the bag and made himself quite comfortable on the beaded lace and satin stored within.



And he looks so mad that I want him to move! Having a pet around in the sewing room adds joy to everyday!

I love sewing with gorgeous fabric, especially silk. It feels glorious as it passes through my hands as I sew. Thus, fabrics rescued, I am onto developing a new collection of pieces that can be worn for three seasons. I am looking at making some blouses and tunics.

If you have any great pattern ideas, please post them in the comments section below



DIY Sewing Room Projects, Easy Sewing Projects, Fabric, Free Sewing Tutorial, Sewing, Sewing and Embroidery, Simple Sewing

DIY Circular Sewing Attachment

A repost from my old blog. As we are stash blasting, this is a quick and easy way to add style to home decor and garment projects. The full PDF file for making a DIY Circular Sewing Attachment is available on the website at Sutura Style. Enjoy and Happy Sewing!

The Sewist Club


Happy New Year! Over the Holidays I got busy and reviewed a whopping 8 (!) sewing machines. I will post the results on our new main website at once it is up and running (hopefully over the next two weeks). In the meanwhile, as I was messing about, I decided to push the limits of the Brother Laura Ashley CX-155, to see how many of the great features, found on it’s bigger (read: much more expensive) cousins; NX2000, NX5000 Isadore and the NX800, I could emulate. One of the features that I really love about the Laura Ashley line is the ability to create perfect circular sewing. So, I made myself a little circular sewing attachment and gave it a whirl. Here is how I made it, and the results. Happy Sewing!

For this project you will need: a thin flat ruler, sticky Velcro, a fine tip marker, a utility…

View original post 635 more words

Craft Room, Hobby Spaces

The Stunning Studio of Artist Tabitha Campbell – A Photo Tour


I have the privilege of living across from a very talented artist, Tabitha Campbell. In celebration of the Stash Blaster, Tabitha allowed me to tour her beautiful, vintage inspired Maker Studio where everything from Vintage Hats to lace and quilting fabrics was on display. The sign above, says is all – C R E A T I V E.

While I drooled, ogled and indulged in some serious envy, all emotions were overwhelmed by some of the incredible works of art coming out of this lady’s studio. In progress is a vintage Christmas wreath (yes, she’s working on it in July!) and a beautiful beaded bracelet.


Displayed on the beam in her bright basement studio is a collection of vintage hats. So my millinery pulse is pumping again. My issue with millinery isn’t that I can’t get the goods or don’t want to try, it’s that the era of wearing hats has been over here for a long time. Where would I wear my labors of love once they are complete. Tabitha’s collection leaves me longing for a bygone era when ladies attire was so chic.


A stunning collection of vintage lace and trims adorns the walls. I have to apologize to you all – my eyes and therefore my camera were focused on my favorite colors, aqua, yellow and fuschia. But there is much more to see and if you are in the area, I would love to have you join us at the Stitcher’s Switch – part of our Stash Blast event where we can all trade fabrics and buy trims, notions etc from each other. (Date and time to be announced at the Blast July 18th). Tabitha will be opening her studio to us for trading, buying (trims are allowed!) and inspiration.







This little corner with the vintage dress form, fuschia flowers and Eiffel Tower picture captured my heart the most. Paris anyone?

Dresses, Easy Serger Projects, Easy Sewing Projects, Free Sewing Tutorial, Overlock Machine, Serger, Simple Sewing, Stash Blast

Ready, Set….WAIT!

Lol! So my Summer Stash Blaster was kicked off and I got busy sewing. I contacted a few students and they were excited about it but needed time to prepare. So, I am going to keep sewing and posting but I won’t actually start the Blast until everyone else is ready – we’ll kick it off officially on Saturday July 18th at Hancock Fabrics Carmel. Considering how much fabric I have, this will truly be a Summer Stash Blast since I will be going until August 18th now.

If you are interested in participating, please sign up on the FaceBook Page so we can support each other on. I’ve created an event for this and would love to see pictures!! There is no time commitment – come when you can, sew as you are able and let’s help each other along!

Summer Stash Blast Sign Up

This week was Wonderful Whites. Everything that I could whip up quickly with white or off white thread is shared below. As promised, here is the good, the bad and the ugly – maybe I should just call the ‘ugly’ the “uh-oh’s” (smile). I am a little behind with pictures but will load more after the 4th.

The good:

A pretty blend of sheer and light sweater knits from Hancock Fabrics
A pretty blend of sheer and light sweater knits from Hancock Fabrics
About 20 minutes work on the serger. Look for the project sheet at  the Sutura Style website
About 20 minutes work on the serger. Look for the project sheet at the Sutura Style website

Comfy, cozy DIY jammers. Easy to cut and serge

DIY Jammer Pants

sheersummertunicandcapris This sheer tunic in an ultra light knit looks nice over the leggings that I made – I wear a pretty tank top with lace underneath it.


diyknittopchevronstripes I struggled with matching the chevron stripes on this little T-shirt, but eventually got it. I should have just basted the whole thing by had to start with but tried to glue baste it instead. Ripped it out twice. Finally managed to get it as close as I could. Pretty happy with it 🙂


The bad: These stripes were just awful. I bought this fabric on sale but failed to notice that the stripes actually decrease in width and CURVE close to the selvedge. Ugh.



The Uh-Oh

I tried to cut out a chevron stripe top from center of the fabric but had only a little bit left. Agitated, I made a real whopper of a mistake and had to toss the project out. Instead of cutting the fabric on the opposing bias to create a chevron, as above, I wound up cutting on the matching bias and thus ended up with two front pieces that are the same. This project was destined for the trash from the moment I noticed the bad stripes.



To save time, I cut all the knit tops above from a single Kwik Sew pattern and lengthened, shortened and moved the fabric as necessary. When I am working like this, I only use the back pattern and adjust the necklines for different styles. That is why the the photo above appears to have a back and front I started to cut a “V” when I realized that I had made a cutting error.


So, that is most of my sewing this week. A couple more tops, a shawl, and a tunic left to photograph, they are done but I forgot to take pics (sorry!). I am working on a Maxi Dress today with a turtleneck or cowl neckline. More photos to come!

Happy Serging!


Couture, Dresses, Easy Sewing Projects, Fabric, How to use a Serger

Summer Sewing Stash Blaster – Wardrobe Make-Over

Stash of Sewing Fabrics

This fabric has been sitting pretty in my stash for too long. It’s time for a stash blaster! I am determined to work up the courage to FINALLY sew the beautiful silk suiting that I splurged on and give my wardrobe completely made-over. To push myself, last week I cleared out my closet and put about 95% in bags for donation. Now, I have no choice. I have to sew – so here we go! I made my first little foray into blaster mode with the trio of skirts from earlier this week but am kicking it into high gear today.

I’ve also given myself rules for my Summer Sewing Blast.

1) NO BUYING MORE FABRIC UNTIL WHAT I HAVE IS SEWN! Trading with fellow sewists is allowed and purchase of lining and interling is okay as needed only



4) NO NEW PATTERNS – self-drafting is okay but not one more penny is to be spent.

The first day is the hardest, so I am glad I warmed up. To save time, I am going to work by color. This will allow me to use the same threads on the serger and sewing machine and I can go from project to project. Today is white & ecru. Here is the pile of everything I have that can be stitched up with white and ivory thread.


Heavier, suit weight fabrics and cottons are at the back, blouse or dressweight is in the middle and knits and novelty are at the bottom. I see some Dirndl skirts, a maxi dress, and some quick tops. The suit weight goods are another matter. A serious review of my existing patterns is in order! However, to build momentum, I am going to start at the bottom and work my way up. Results are on the way!

If you have a stash and want to join in – I would love to have some company.  Happy Sewing!

Easy Sewing Projects, Free Sewing Tutorial, How to use a Serger, Maxi Skirts, Sewing, Sewing Patterns, Simple Sewing, skirts

Sewing Summer Circle Skirts Tutorial

Summer is officially here and has arrived in Indy with sweltering humidity. Last week I whipped up a circle skirt in a few minutes and after some very kind comments decided to write a tutorial. There is nothing really scientific about making circle skirts, they are dead easy and can generally be whipped up on serger in about 25 minutes or less including cutting time.

Summer Skirts

To make a circle skirt you will need approximately 2.25 – 4.5 yards of fabric, depending on your size how full you want the skirt to be. You can use pretty much any fabric that suits your taste; I have used a knit and two woven fabrics for the three skirts that I made. I also saved time by using a decorative 1″ elastic waistband on one skirt – I just serged it on and voila – waistband done.

The elastic looks like this:

Fuschia Waistband Elastic

and is available in a variety of widths and colors online.

Step 1

Measure the length you want the skirt to be. Start at your natural waist (just below your navel) and let the tape measure drop to the floor, then with the aid of a friend, spouse or in my case a full length mirror, determine how long you want the skirt to be. In this example, I am using 30″. Add 6″ and double the amount. So I have 36″ x 2 = 72″. I need another 3″-4″ for the waistband casing. Total yardage needed is 76″ or a little over 2 yards. I buy 2.25 to be on the safe side.

Step 2

Measure your waist with the elastic . Take a length of elastic, wrap it around your waist and cut it. Next, pinch about 1″ off the ends. Then pull it down over the hips to your thighs to ensure there is enough stretch. The amount of stretch can vary with different types of elastic and if you have decided to use the decorative type, you may be surprised to find it has less stretch than the typical white, no-roll goods one finds at fabric shops. Adjust your piece accordingly, decreasing the 1″ if needed or trimming off any excess.

Step 3

Based on the measurement in Step 1, I need two 36″ lengths of fabric. I cut these and place them on the cutting table. Both pieces are folded lengthwise as shown (please pardon my cutting mess :)) I cut two skirts at the same time using a rotary cutter so you are actually seeing both skirts cut. On top of my cut circles is the extra yardage needed for the waistband casing.

Step 4

Measure your hips at the fullest part using a tape measure and add 1″. In my case that adds to 40″. I now need to cut the waist opening 40″ including seam allowance. Since my fabric is folded in half, that means cutting a 20″ semi-oval shape for the waist opening. BTW turkey platters make great templates 🙂 Once the oval is cut, I use my tape measure to mark the 30″ length all the way around the bottom edge of the fabric as above, then cut. Make a notch at the folds to indicate center front and center back. This is a vital step to ensure that the fullness is evenly distributed. Cutting a Circle Skirt

Step 5

It actually takes less time to serge these together than to cut them! If you want more fullness in your skirt, cut four sections instead of two. Next, using a four thread safety stitch, overlock the side seams together.

Thread Blending for Sergers   Thread Blending for SergerThread Blending

FYI: I used a home sewing method called Thread Blending, which I learned eons ago from a Singer Sewing Reference Library book. I mixed up the thread colors allowing me to serge two very different fabrics at the same time. It saves time and money, because you only need a few colors of thread and then blend to match.

Step 6: Three Waistband Options 

If you want to use decorative elastic

Butt the ends together and stitch them on a conventional machine. Fold the elastic in half and mark the halfway point with chalk or a pin. Match the seam on the elastic to one of the side seams and the halfway point to the other sideseam. Serge the elastic to the skirt using the notches at center front and center back as a guide to distribute the fullness.

If you wish to make a conventional elastic waistband

Cut the waistband casing from the fabric on the crossgrain about 3″ wide by your hip measurement from Step 4 – in my case that was 40″. Sew the elastic to the casing with a tricot or stretch stitch on one long side only, leaving 1/2″ of seam allowance all around as shown. BTW Ihave used contrasting thread so that you can see what I am doing. Normally I would use a matching thread to blend when sewing.  The side with the thread showing (photo 2 below) is now the INSIDE of the waistband so the threads don’t show.

Elastic Waistband Casing DIY   DIY Summer Skirt Tutorial

To make it easier you can draw a line to indicate the elastic placement position. I don’t normally do this but if you are a new sewer or just want the assurance that it will be even, it only takes a few seconds to make the lines.

Making a Waistband Casing

Serge the casing closed. Pin the prepared casing to the skirt matching the side seam to the casing seam as shown. Since I am working on black fabric, the seams are hard to see but one has the pin through it and the other is indicated with my brush tip. Place the band on a flat surface. Make a notch at the natural fold, opposite to the seam. Fold the band in half and make two more notches. Match your notches with the center front and center back notches in your skirt

DIY Elastic Waist Circle Skirt

Crank your differential feed to the max. Using one hand to pull the elastic flat as shown, and the other to ease the fabric in, attach the wasitband to the skirt. This is MUCH easier to do than it is to explain 🙂

How to Sew an Elastic Waist Skirt

If you want to make a High Waist Skirt with an Interlock (soft) Waistband

Finally, if you want to create a dropped waist with a high band effare using a piece of interlock for the waistband, as I did with the knit skirt, cut it the width that you desire, I chose 5″. The length should be your waist measurement but since the stretch value of interlock varies so much, cut your strip generously and then test it by grasping the ends and sliding the band over your hips and thighs. Adjust accordingly. I cut mine at 29″ and it turned out beautifully.

High Waist Knit Skirt

Serge the ends together forming a tube and serge the whole tube to the skirt. To do this, place the band on a flat surface. Make a notch at the natural fold, opposite to the seam. Fold the band in half and make two more notches. Match your notches with the notches in your skirt. Serge your waistband to the skirt.

Step 7: Hemming the skirt

To finish the hems, the cutting instructions have left you with some options. You can used a rolled hem on a conventional machine, do a stitch and turn hem or simply finish off the edges with a rolled hem on the serger, which is what I chose to do for all three skirts. In order to prevent the hemline from rippling, I reduced the differential feed to setting 5 for the Juki. Using the rolled hem you can create a super-fast, clean finish to your skirts and the differential feed takes care of the natural stretch caused by the bias or knit fabric.

So, I have three new skirts for summer and my quest to replace my entire wardrobe with custom sewn clothes continues.

Happy Summer and Happy Sewing! Natalie